Expert Advice Made Easy | cycling in cities

Cycling Made Easy: Brakes Maintenance

cycling made easy, bike rider There's no point cycling somewhere if you can't stop once you've arrived. In these cold winter months it is important to remain vigilant when maintaining your brakes. Follow our expert advice to ensure your brakes are kept in top condition and can be swapped out should you need to change them.

Replacing Brake Pads

Release the brakes and remove the old brake pads with a 5-mm Allen key or, if you have cantilever brakes, you will also need an open 10-mm spanner. Fit the new brakes and align them to the wheel rim before tightening.

Replacing Brake Cables

There are two main parts to a brake cable: the inner wire and the outer housing. You can replace them independently of each other but this guide will deal with changing both together.

Slacken the cable pinch bolt and draw the cable through after snipping off the end cap with wire cutters. If you have V-brakes, keep the metal tube (the noodle) and the rubber tube in a safe place as you will need to reuse them.
Unscrew the adjustment barrel next to the brake levers by hand, and line up the slots in the barrel, the locking nut and the brake lever unit. The cable can now be lifted out.
Cut your new cable housing (not the inner wire) to the same length as the old one with cable cutters. Attach the metal ferrules (rings) to one end.
Wipe some oil onto the inner wire and slide it into the cable housing.
Hook the nipple into the end of the brake lever and fit the inner cable into the slots in the lever unit and the barrel adjuster.
Feed the other end of the inner cable through its fittings and fit the housing to its relevant attachments on the frame and at its terminals.
Pull the cable tight through the pinch nut then tighten.Resize
Make sure everything is in place and the brakes are centred and aligned. Make fine adjustments by turning the adjustment barrel by hand, then tighten the locking.
Pull firmly on the brake lever several times to bed it in.
When satisfied that all is in place and working properly, cut the free end of the inner wire, allowing some spare. Attach a cable end cap by pinching it over the cable with your pliers.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.

Links

Check out these tips for wet-weather cycling here.
For more information on bike maintenance, plus choosing a bike, equipment and clothing and much more, take a look at our book Cycling by David North. For a limited time only we are offering a 30% discount from our website here.
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Cycling Made Easy: Cleaning and Lubricating

expert advice made easy, cleaning bike It's raining, it's pouring, but there are still some cyclists who brave the road. In weather like this, cycling can be fun and blow away your cobwebs. However, it's important to make sure your bike is maintained to the highest possible standard so that you are safe on the roads.

Cleaning and lubricating your bike will ensure it is kept in prime condition through the winter weather. Utilise our expert advice made easy and ensure that you clean before you lubricate, especially the chain, as oil will otherwise carry dirt deeper into the moving parts, doing more harm than good.

Cleaning the Frame

Place your bicycle on the work stand, if you have one, or lean it against a wall.
Wipe the bicycle with warm water except for the chain and the parts it contacts. If the bicycle is very dirty, or for the dirtier areas, you can use a citrus degreaser. Leave it for two minutes and rinse off. Wipe off the moisture with a clean, dry cloth.
Apply polish or wax to the paintwork and any chrome parts if you wish. Wax will protect the paint and prevent chrome from rusting. Avoid getting harsh cleaning products on the tyres and brake pads. Also avoid getting lubricant or wax on the rims and brake pads.

expert advice made easy, parts of a bike

The Chain Drive

The key area to suffer wear is the chain and those parts it comes into contact with. Dirt is the prime culprit, so cleaning before lubricating is essential. Depending on the type of bicycle you have, there will be different parts with different names so, for the purpose of keeping this simple, I am calling the whole area the ‘chain drive’. This comprises the following:

The chain: This connects the pedals to the rear wheel.
The chainrings: These are the sprockets (cogs) by the pedals.
The cogset: This is the set of sprockets on the rear wheel.
Derailleurs: These are the attachments by the chainring and cogset that push the chain from one sprocket to another.

Cleaning the Chain Drive

Most of the time you can clean this area whilst the chain is on the bicycle. You can buy a special chain cleaning tool if you wish, but the steps below use brushes and cloths.

Place your bicycle on a work stand or upside down if you don’t have one.
Brush some clean, warm water into the chain and everything it has contact with – the chainrings, cogsets and derailleurs. Hold a damp cloth around the chain and pedal backwards.
Next make a fold in the cloth and work it, back and forth, in between the sprockets. Don’t expect to get all the dirt off at this stage.
With a clean brush, work some solvent or degreaser into the chain drive. Toothbrushes or nailbrushes are great for the chain, derailleurs and the tops of the sprockets, whilst a longer, stiff-bristled brush is ideal for getting in between the sprockets. Alternatively, use a clean cloth, folded and worked in between the sprockets.
Using some warm water, a clean brush and a clean cloth, remove any degreaser and dirt, making sure to get in between each chain link and the sprockets.
Finally, dry the whole area, and anywhere else that may have been splashed, with a clean, dry cloth.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.