The Expert Advice, Made Easy Blog

Water accounts for about 60 per cent of body weight in adult males and 50–55 per cent in females. Lean muscles and the brain are around 75 per cent water, blood is 81 per cent and even bones are 22 per cent. Water fuels every part of the body and, without sufficient water, things can quickly go wrong.

The Importance of Water

It is almost impossible to overstate the importance of good hydration to a runner, so taking a few minutes to understand a little of the science behind this is highly recommended.

What Does Water Do?

Water serves several key functions in the body:

• Controls weight; preventing confusion between hunger and thirst.

• Flushes toxins from the body.

• Moisturizes the skin and helps maintain elasticity.

• Helps maintain cushioning and lubrication in the joints.

• Reduces the risk of kidney and bladder infections.

• Improves circulation.

• Regulates body temperature.

Why We Sweat

Unlike other animals, which roll around in mud (pigs) or flap their ears (elephants), humans regulate their body temperature via the sweat mechanism. In hot conditions or during exercise, sweat glands – some 2.6 million in the average adult – produce a fluid that is transported to the surface of the skin, where it evaporates and cools us down.

How Much Do You Sweat?

The amount of sweat produced varies between individuals, and is also dependent on both the duration of exercise and weather conditions. However, as a rough guide, during a moderately fast run on a warm day, a person will sweat in the region of 500–600 ml per hour. 

The amount we sweat is directly proportional to the amount of water that should be replaced, so it can be useful to more accurately calculate a ‘sweat rate’. Do so as follows:

1. Make a note of how much water you have consumed (in millilitres).

2. Wipe excess sweat from your skin and weigh yourself again.

3. Sweat loss (in millilitres) = body weight before exercise (in kilograms) – body weight after exercise (kilograms) + water consumed during exercise.

• Top Tip: For really accurate sweat rates, repeat the sweat test a few times and take an average. It can be useful to know your sweat rate for various weather (temperature).

Before a Run

Make sure that you are adequately hydrated before any form of exercise – pay particular attention if you are running first thing in the morning, as your body slowly dehydrates overnight. Avoid coffee and alcohol, as both contribute to dehydration, but, equally, avoid excessive water, as this will ‘slosh’ uncomfortably on the run and can lead to frequent toilet breaks.

On the Run

Making a note of your sweat rate, ensure that you are replacing enough fluids on an hourly basis. Drink little and often – sipping regularly from a bottle will encourage the habit of good hydration. If you wait until you feel thirsty, you’ve left it too long.

Post-run

Avoid the temptation to gulp down water after a run, and in particular avoid ice-cold water, as this may cause stomach cramps. Continue to drink regularly through the day and, again, avoid coffee and alcohol.

Salting it Out

Although plain water goes a long way to rehydrating the body, a great deal of salt (a combination that includes sodium, potassium and magnesium rather than the ‘table’ variety) is lost during exercise. It is important, especially on long runs, to replace these as quickly as possible. Most sports drinks include these body salts, but it is also worth using salt-replacement tablets, which can be dissolved in a regular water bottle.

Sports Drinks

Although basic sports and running drinks have been around for half a century, the market has grown beyond all recognition in the last 10 years, despite the fact that they remain a fairly simple mix of carbohydrates (energy from sugars), electrolytes (body salts), water and flavourings.

Which Tonic?

Whatever else a sport drink may offer (an added caffeine kick, for example), there are three basic types:

• Hypotonic drinks: These can be absorbed much more quickly than plain water because their ratio of carbohydrates and electrolytes is less than the body’s. They do not offer the same energy surge as isotonic or hypertonic drinks, but they do replace fluids quickly and are best suited for use during low-intensity and hot runs.

• Isotonic drinks: These contain a balance of carbohydrates and electrolytes near-identical to that of the body. They are absorbed at about the same rate as water, but have the advantage of containing sugar-based energy. They work best for higher-intensity workouts, strenuous runs or races, and deliver a greater energy boost.

• Hypertonic drinks: These are best suited to post-exercise recovery, as they are absorbed relatively slowly but help to replenish energy and replace salts lost through sweating.

Is Caffeine Good for Runners?

Some sports drinks and virtually all ‘energy’ drinks contain caffeine – usually about the same amount found in a single shot of espresso. There is some evidence to suggest that small doses bring benefits such as increased VO2Max (the body’s ability to absorb oxygen) and even lactic threshold (the point at which your muscles tire), but these are short-lived. Caffeine also produces a rush of energy, but this too is short-lived, and too much caffeine can cause a range of less desirable results, including raised blood pressure and upset stomachs.

• Top Tip: Avoid more than a single cup of coffee before a run, as it can contribute to dehydration. Be aware that tea, even some herbal teas, contains a percentage. 

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Running by Justin Bowyer (ISBN: 9780857753892) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on running. Have a look on amazon by clicking here.

• Make sure you avoid the 6 hydration mistakes on race day, by clicking here.

• What's better, bottled water or tap water? To find out just click here. 

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

Safety should be your number-one priority on every run. Running safety is mostly common sense, but even a momentary lapse can spell disaster and taking some simple steps will ensure a safe and happy run.

Consider these helpful pieces of advice from our experts, ensuring your running experience is safe and enjoyable.

• MP3 players: Only ever listen to music on a run when you are certain it is safe to do so, and never when running in the road.

• Run against the traffic: If you are running in the road, you are vulnerable. Always run on the side of the road where you are facing oncoming traffic.

• Be seen: Running at night and in poor visibility means wearing high-visibility clothing and even small clip-on lights. Make yourself as visible as possible.

  

• Stay in contact: When exploring more isolated routes, take a mobile phone. Public phone boxes aren’t as common as they used to be.

• Beware driveways: When running on pavements, stay alert for cars reversing from drives.

• Take a running mate: If you are concerned about isolated routes, always run with someone else.

• Make your route known: It is always best to let someone know roughly where you are intending to go and how long you are likely to be.

• Make a noise: A small attack alarm or whistle can be a sensible precaution.

  

• Pay attention: It is all too easy to allow a car to pass, only to step out in front of a second vehicle. Stay alert.

• Carry identification: This is vital in case of an emergency – consider something as simple as writing your phone number inside a shoe; paramedics will know to check.

• ICE: If you carry a mobile phone, enter a contact as ICE (In Case of Emergency) with a relevant contact number – again, paramedics know to check for this.

• Rights of way: Always check on a map for rights of way, as online satellite maps can be (literally) misleading.

• Silent cyclists: Cyclists make little noise, but an impact with one can be as devastating as with a car. Stay alert on likely cycle routes.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Running by Justin Bowyer (ISBN: 9780857753892) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on running. Have a look on amazon by clicking here.

Links

• Have a look at some running tips for beginners here.

• Live in the city? Check out city running routes in your area here.

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

As winter recedes in wake of spring, you may find yourself willing to venture outside and get in shape for the summer. With useful tips and hints taken from our expert advice Made Easy series, let us help you prepare for your outdoor fitness plans. 

Modern running shoes are precision-built from a large number of individual components, each designed to perform a specific function and to work in harmony with each other. Manufacturers’ websites should detail all the technical aspects of their shoes. Our expert advice made easy helps translate this information into simple, digestable information.

Jargon-buster

Here are some of the main terms you will find when researching running shoes.

• Eyelets: The holes that the laces run through.

• Heel: The first point of contact for many runners. The heel is often rounded to aid forward motion and may be made of a variety of materials, from gel to air pockets.

• Collar: The soft inside top rear of the shoe that supports the ankle and provides protection for the Achilles tendon.

• Heel counter: A rigid, moulded support inside the shoe that cradles the heel.

• Heel tab: This extends upwards from the heel counter at the rear of the shoe to hold the heel firmly in place. It often has a cutout area called an ‘Achilles notch’ to reduce direct pressure on the Achilles tendon.

• Midsole: This provides primary protection from the impact force of each foot strike. Although the midsole is usually made of foam, some manufacturers use special gels or air pockets.

• Outsole: The outsole is the bit that hits the ground (normally after the heel); it both provides structure to the shoe and gives traction on the running surface.

• Quarter panels: These are the sides of the shoe. They may include a small piece of mesh to reduce weight and add ventilation.

• Footbed: A removable insert that helps the shoe to fit snugly. It can usually be removed to aid drying.

• Tongue: The tongue sits between the laces and the upper foot. It may be ‘gusted’ (connected at the sides) to reduce the amount of water that can get in.

• Upper: This is the top part of the shoe that encases the foot. Like the quarter panels, these may incorporate a degree of mesh venting.

The Three Main Types

Besides specialist track shoes (with spikes), there are only three main types of shoe from which to choose: road, trail and the relatively new phenomenon of barefoot shoes. Each is designed for a specific purpose, so bear this in mind when making your decision. Seek impartial advice on the pros and cons of manufacturers and the latest designs by looking in running magazines and online forums.

Road Shoes

Road shoes are especially designed for running on hard surfaces. Some may be suitable for a small amount of trail or off-road running, but the quickest way to destroy your shoes is by using them for anything other than their intended purpose. The road shoes you choose will depend on a wide range of variables, the most important of which is your natural running style. This should be checked and advised upon by a specialist retailer.

Avoid Fashion

The price of road shoes varies enormously, but expect to pay anything from £40/$60 to in excess of £100/$160. To some degree, you get what you pay for, but do not be fooled into simply thinking that the more you pay, the better the shoe. There is more than a dash of fashion in running, and you will always pay a premium for the big-name shoes and the latest designs. Many of these will be packed with a multitude of technical-sounding extras that often serve little purpose for the majority of day-to-day running.

Trail Shoes

Trail shoes not only have to fulfil your basic needs in terms of cushioning and stability, they also have to perform a number of additional tasks, including protecting the toe and sole from uneven surfaces and delivering enhanced traction for wet and muddy conditions.

Getting a Grip

Trail running inevitably means uneven and often wet terrains; your shoes need to be up to the job of keeping you upright and providing enough traction to move you forward. Different manufacturers use a range of tread styles to achieve this, ranging from quite flat car tyre-style treads to large studs (or ‘lugs’) or even additional metal spikes. Low-profile treads provide good all-round traction, but they are unlikely to stand up to the very worst conditions. Conversely, shoes with really large lugs (resembling football boots) will handle more gruelling terrain but can skid on firmer or more compact surfaces.

Trail shoes with low-profile lugs will allow some degree of road running to get you to the start of your off-road route. If you are likely to be running multi-terrain – a mix of trail, path and road – then choose a pair without large lugs.

Barefoot Shoes

Nothing sounds more contradictory than a barefoot shoe, but over the last few years this running revolution has been transformed from a niche market – initially written off by many as a fad – to a massive industry with growing scientific backing. One of the sparks that ignited this quantum leap in shoe design was Christopher McDougall’s book Born to Run, a highly recommended read even for the most novice runner.

Natural Style

Barefoot shoes are little more than gloves for the feet, providing minimum padding against underfoot forces and, crucially, having no built-up heel, to encourage a more mid- to forefoot running style. This, proponents claim, is a more ‘biomechanically efficient’ way of running, far more in line with the way we were intended to run in an evolutionary sense. Research certainly seems to support this claim, and barefoot runners are undeniably evangelical about the advantages.

Links

• Are you one of the ten types of runner often seen on the road?

• You might enjoy this funny running story.

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

Chains will wear and ‘stretch’ over time, especially if not lubricated regularly. This can wear down the chainrings and cogsets leading to chain slippage, poor performance and possible accidents. In the next of our series on Cycling Expert Advice, Made Easy, we look at how to replace a worn chain.

Checking the Chain for Wear

Wear on the chain is caused by dirt getting into its joints, combined with the constant friction of contact with the sprockets. A chain wear indicator tool can be bought for less than £10, but you can simply use a ruler instead. Each chain link is made exactly half an inch long, so 12 inches from the centre of a link pin should be the centre of the 24th pin along. If the chain is longer by more than 1⁄16 inch, then it is time to replace it.

Replacing a Worn Chain

Check to see if the chain has a quick-release link (also called a snap link), which is a special type of link that can be fitted and removed without a chain tool. It looks different to the other links. If it does, you can pop it off by hand or with a screwdriver or other tool.

Failing that, you will need to use a chain tool as follows:

1. Place the bicycle on your work stand or lean it against a wall.

2. Hook a short piece of electrical wire around the links on either side and over the link you are going to break. This will prevent the chain clattering onto the floor and the derailleur kicking up.

3. Turn the screw handle of the chain tool anticlockwise until it stops. This will retract the chain tool’s pin so that you can fit the chain into the tool and align the chain tool pin with a chain link pin.

4. Fit the chain tool around a link of chain that you are going to break. There are two slots for this on the chain tool. Use the one furthest from the chain tool handle. Using the nearest slot is for loosening only.

5. Screw the handle clockwise until the chain tool’s pin touches the chain link pin. Make sure it is aligned and then continue to turn clockwise. There will be resistance but keep going until the pin is pushed out.

   • If you are removing the chain to clean it and intend to put it back on again, push the link pin a little over half way through and retract the chain tool pin and remove the chain tool. Then take the chain in your hand and twist it a few times; it will come apart with the link pin still fitted in the outer link plate. This will make it easier to reattach by using your chain tool again to push the pin back through the plates.

6. Your new chain will probably have more links than your old chain so these need to be removed using the chain tool. Before breaking the new chain, make sure you are clear about how the ends fit together. If you are using a pin you need an outer link on one end and an inner link on the other so that you can slot the inner link inside the outer and push the pin through with the chain tool. If you have a quick link (snap link), you need two inner links at either end of the chain as the quick link is an outer.

7. Place the new chain over the bottom bracket, inside the chainrings, and over the small sprocket at the rear. Align the derailleur and feed the chain over the upper pulley, down and behind and under the lower pulley. Use your electrical wire to link the two ends together.

8. Align the chain ends and, using the chain tool, screw the pin until it sits neatly through all four plates. Don’t forget to remove the electrical wire.

9. The new join will be a little stiff, so work the link up and down and side to side a little, then lift the chain off the bracket and feed it onto the lowest chainring from underneath whilst pedalling backwards with your hand.

10. Lubricate the chain and wipe off any excess.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.

Links

• Check out an interactive map of Britain's best bike rides here.

• Check out top ten tips to help you winter-proof your bike here.

• If you want to know more tips and advice on choosing, riding and maintaining a bike, why not buy our Cycling book? Take a look here.

There's no point cycling somewhere if you can't stop once you've arrived. In these cold winter months it is important to remain vigilant when maintaining your brakes. Follow our expert advice to ensure your brakes are kept in top condition and can be swapped out should you need to change them. 

Replacing Brake Pads

Release the brakes and remove the old brake pads with a 5-mm Allen key or, if you have cantilever brakes, you will also need an open 10-mm spanner. Fit the new brakes and align them to the wheel rim before tightening.

Replacing Brake Cables

There are two main parts to a brake cable: the inner wire and the outer housing. You can replace them independently of each other but this guide will deal with changing both together.

1. Slacken the cable pinch bolt and draw the cable through after snipping off the end cap with wire cutters. If you have V-brakes, keep the metal tube (the noodle) and the rubber tube in a safe place as you will need to reuse them.

2. Unscrew the adjustment barrel next to the brake levers by hand, and line up the slots in the barrel, the locking nut and the brake lever unit. The cable can now be lifted out.

3. Cut your new cable housing (not the inner wire) to the same length as the old one with cable cutters. Attach the metal ferrules (rings) to one end.

4. Wipe some oil onto the inner wire and slide it into the cable housing.

5. Hook the nipple into the end of the brake lever and fit the inner cable into the slots in the lever unit and the barrel adjuster.

6. Feed the other end of the inner cable through its fittings and fit the housing to its relevant attachments on the frame and at its terminals.

7. Pull the cable tight through the pinch nut then tighten.Resize

8. Make sure everything is in place and the brakes are centred and aligned. Make fine adjustments by turning the adjustment barrel by hand, then tighten the locking.

9. Pull firmly on the brake lever several times to bed it in.

10. When satisfied that all is in place and working properly, cut the free end of the inner wire, allowing some spare. Attach a cable end cap by pinching it over the cable with your pliers.

    

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.

Links

• Check out these tips for wet-weather cycling here.

• For more information on bike maintenance, plus choosing a bike, equipment and clothing and much more, take a look at our book Cycling by David North. For a limited time only we are offering a 30% discount from our website here.

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

It's raining, it's pouring, but there are still some cyclists who brave the road. In weather like this, cycling can be fun and blow away your cobwebs. However, it's important to make sure your bike is maintained to the highest possible standard so that you are safe on the roads. 

Cleaning and lubricating your bike will ensure it is kept in prime condition through the winter weather. Utilise our expert advice made easy and ensure that you clean before you lubricate, especially the chain, as oil will otherwise carry dirt deeper into the moving parts, doing more harm than good.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.

Links

• Read some further tips on how to be safe when cycling in the winter here.

• For more information on bike maintenance, plus choosing a bike, equipment and clothing and much more, take a look at our book Cycling by David North here

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

 

Whether it's cycling to work or you're out on a bike ride for fun, you've no doubt experienced that feeling of your bike suddenly feeling very bumpy and looked down to see that one of your tyres is flat. You've got a puncture! If you've yet to experience this then you're very lucky, and to be honest it's probably just a matter of time before you do!

When it happens don't panic as we have the expert advice made easy so you'll be back on the road in no time - just follow these eight simple steps to dealing with a puncture.

Repairing A Puncture

1. Remove the wheel and examine the tyre to see what might have caused the damage. If you do find something, remove it and mark the tyre with the small crayon or chalk that comes with your repair kit. If you don’t find any obvious cause for the puncture, just continue with the steps. If you're not sure how to remove the wheel, see our post on how to do this here.

2. Ease a tyre lever between the tyre and the wheel rim, then press it down against the edge of the rim, taking care not to puncture the inner tube. This should lift the inner edge of the tyre out of the wheel well. Hook the other end of the lever around a spoke.

3. Do the same with a second tyre lever about an eighth of the way around the rim but, instead of securing it to a spoke, slide it along the rim away from the first lever. This should bring the edge of the tyre all the way off. Now you can completely remove the whole tyre from the rim.

4. Remove the inner tube from inside the tyre but leave the valve in the wheel. If you found a potential cause for the puncture and marked the location with a crayon, you will now be able to check the inside of the tyre for anything sticking through and look at the inner tube to see if there is a puncture at that point.

5. Whether you found a hole or not, partially inflate the tube and hold it close to your ear and slide it through your hands, listening for a hiss. If you hear something but can’t identify the exact spot when you move it away from your ear, dab some water or spit on the tube in the approximate area and watch for bubbles. Alternatively, feed the tube under water in a bucket. When you have located the puncture, mark the spot with your crayon.

6. Dry the inner tube and roughen the area around the hole with sandpaper, then spread glue around the puncture covering an area a little larger than the size of the patch you are going to use. Leave the glue a few moments to become tacky.

7. Place the patch over the puncture, pressing it down firmly, before peeling off the plastic cover. Dust the area with grated chalk and wait five minutes to make sure the glue is properly dry, then replace the inner tube and tyre.
   

8. To replace the tyre on the wheel rim work the edge of the tyre over the rim with your hands, taking care not to pinch the inner tube at any point. Towards the end the tyre will become tightly stretched and you may need to use tyre levers to prise the last part over the rim. You can now inflate the inner tube fully.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, Cycling by David North (ISBN: 9780857750969) – where you can find more on the above and further help and advice on Cycling.

Links

• If you find you are susceptible to getting punctures take a look at some tips on how to avoid getting them here

• For more information on bike maintenance, plus choosing a bike, equipment and clothing and much more, take a look at our book Cycling by David North here

• To keep up-to-date on our latest posts and download a free Made Easy ebook click the link below and sign up.

Over the next few weeks, Expert Advice, Made Easy is going to take a look at some common problems with your bike and show you how you can deal with them with easy to follow step-by-step instructions. Remember, the more you look after your bike and perform small maintenance on it (before and after you use it), the better condition it will stay in, the less punctures you will get, and the less you will end up taking it to the bike repair shop. That will save you time and money!

Let's start with something simple – removing the wheels. Many maintenance tasks require a wheel to be removed so it's important you know how to do it. First you will need to unhook the brakes to make enough room for the wheel to come out.

Unhooking Brakes

Cantilever brakes: These can usually be disengaged by unhooking the straddling wire.

V-brakes: These can be lifted out of their cradle.

Caliper brakes: These sometimes have a small lever at the brake end of the cable, which will disengage the cable when lifted.

1. With the brakes disengaged, place the bicycle on the work stand or turn it upside down.

2. The wheel will be held between the forks with either nuts or a quick-release mechanism. The latter has an arm extending from it that you can pull to release the wheel. If it is held with nuts, you can loosen them with appropriate-sized spanners. If they are very tight, spray some lubricant on them. You can now remove the wheel.

3. To replace the wheel, guide the axle into the slots in the forks. These slots are called dropouts.

4. If securing the wheel with nuts, make sure the washer is on the outside of the fork. Tighten each nut a little at a time, alternating between the two. For quick-release, turn the knob clockwise with the lever in the open position then close it. It should close firmly but not be so stiff that it is a struggle. If it is tough, release it and turn the knob slightly anticlockwise.

5. Make sure the wheel is aligned between the forks and test it is secure by hitting the side of the tyre with the palm of your hand. It should not slip to the side.

6. Reconnect the front brake and check to make sure the pads are aligned correctly. If you deflated the tyre then re-inflate it.

The Rear Wheel

1. Shift your gears so that the chain is on the smallest sprockets, front and rear.

2. Release the brakes in the same way as described for a front wheel.

3. Pull back the derailleur if you have one and open the quick-release, or loosen the securing nuts, then remove the wheel.

4. To replace the wheel, guide the chain onto the smallest sprocket and the axle into the fork dropouts. Once in place tighten with the quick-release mechanism or nuts in the same way as for the front wheel, making sure it is aligned and secure.

5. Reattach the brakes and make sure they are properly aligned. If you deflated the tyre then re-inflate it.

So that's how to remove the front and back wheels from your bike. Easy! Next time we'll look at something a little more taxing, how to fix a puncture.

Links

• For a great video showing you how to remove your bike's wheels, click here

• If this inspires you to take a class in bike maintenance, see if there is one near you here

• If you want to know more tips and advice on choosing, riding and maintaining a bike, why not buy our Cycling book? Take a look here

We have talked a little about how to make money on the internet. Obviously one of the main ways to do this is via your own website – whether it is your own shop selling products, or a website about one of your interests, which uses advertising to generate income. But first of all, you need the website. Here are the initial basics of setting up your own site – it's not as difficult as you might think!

Designing a Website

The starting point for creating a website is the design stage. At this point it’s important to know what you want from your website and how you want it to look. Designing a website doesn’t necessarily require the use of a computer, but it does require careful research and planning. The following section explains how this should be done.

What’s the Point? 

The one question that you should keep in mind when designing a website is ‘What is the point of it?’ It’s essential to keep thinking about the purpose of a website, especially when you discover more and more features to add to it and start generating an ever-growing number of ideas. Designers often talk about needs analysis – thinking about what you want from a design. Your answers should include the following:

• Make money: This could be the primary objective, but the website needs more elements to ensure people visit it and in turn make money for you.

• Attract particular visitors: An audience is essential, especially an audience with a specific interest that can make money for you.

Market Research

One of the most effective ways to design a website is to look at what your competitors are offering and see if you can do better. Don’t just stick to websites in your own country; search worldwide through the various search engines from Google and Yahoo! Also, look at other industries that work in the same way as the website you plan to create. For instance, if you plan to create a website covering the renovation of a house, look at websites that cover the restoration of cars.

Design on Paper as well as On Screen

Websites with multiple pages are often easier to design on pieces of paper. This method allows you to make a list of subjects and aspects you want to cover, then write them into the relevant pieces of paper that represent the different pages of the website. Most designers use a hierarchical structure for designing web pages, with an introduction or home page at the top, then sub-pages below and, if necessary, more pages below these. Also invaluable, Microsoft PowerPoint is a presentation package that can be used for designing the pages of a website.

Design Colours and Themes

Look at lots of colour schemes on different websites to help you decide which ones work and which ones look unsuitable. Experiment with different colours, fonts and styles using word-processing or DTP software. This will help to settle upon a particular set of colours, fonts and other styles that can be applied throughout your website. Important: avoid using too many colours and fonts in a website.

Build Your Own Website

A website can be created in a number of ways, ranging from writing your own HTML code using a simple text editor to using an online creation package with web space and a domain name provided. The following section explains what options are available and how a website should be constructed.

Website Checklist

A website needs the following checklist of considerations:

• Domain name: A suitable website address.

• Webspace: A website-hosting service or a server to store the website’s files. 

• Software: A program of some description is required to construct the website, whether it’s online or on your computer.

• Email: A message-forwarding service can provide multiple email addresses that contain your website address (for example, sales@robhawkins.co.uk), which are redirected to a specific email account.

Build Options

The popular approaches to building a website are as follows:

• HTML editor: If you are familiar with writing in hypertext markup language (HTML for short), you can produce exactly what you need using something as simple as a text editor, such as Microsoft Notepad.

• Web design software: Serif’s WebPlus, Adobe’s Dreamweaver and Microsoft’s Frontpage are some of the web design programs that can help create an entire website. Some software is free to use, such as WordPress, whereas others are offered as trial versions with full versions ranging from a few pounds or dollars to a few hundred.

• Other programs: Word processors including Microsoft Word can export a file as a web page, allowing it to be used in a website.  This is an easier approach to creating a website, especially if you are familiar with such a program, but the results may not be as good as using a dedicated program.

• Online design: There are lots of deals offering the online creation of a website, often for free (although advertising is usually included). If you are new to web design software, then a free online website may help to make you more familiar with what’s required.

Using Online Website Design - Step-by-step example

The following step-by-step guide outlines what’s involved in making your own website with an online web design program provided by www.moonfruit.com.

• 

  Visit www.moonfruit.com: Open your web browser and go to Moonfruit’s home page, where you will see a number of website designs on the screen. First, log in or register by clicking on the ‘Login’ button near the top-right corner of the screen. You will need to decide upon a username and password and enter details including your email address. After registering, you can choose to create a website – click on ‘Add site’.

• Pick a design: On Moonfruit’s home page, you’ll see a variety of website designs. Click on the arrows toflick through the different ones and when you find one you like, select it. The design will pop up in the centre of the screen. Select ‘Click to build’ to proceed.

• Name and address: After selecting a website design, you’ll need to enter a name for the site and an address. The site address will include ‘.moonfruit.com’ at the end. So if you use an address such as ‘FrenchGite’, the full address will be www.frenchgite.moonfruit.com. After entering the site name and address, click on ‘Launch my site’ (if the address is already used, you’ll have to enter another one). 

• Keep for free: Your Moonfruit site is only available as a free trial for 15 days, but can be converted to either a paid-for website with more features, or a free website with Moonfruit’s own advertising and limited features (sufficient to get you started). A message box will prompt you and guide you through choosing a paid package or converting to free (the site has to be updated every six months to remain free).

• Add content: The online sitebuilder screen will display the web page design you chose. It can be edited by double-clicking inside text and changing it. Images and text boxes can be removed by selecting them and pressing delete on the keyboard. Other pages for your website can be opened and edited by selecting the appropriate navigation buttons.

• Insert your own images: Click on the Insert button near the top of the screen and a list of objects to insert will appear down the left side of the screen. Click on ‘Image’ on the left side of the screen and a File Manager window will appear. Select the images folder on the left, then click on ‘Upload’ to locate and add your own images from your computer. After uploading an image, select it and click on the ‘Use this’ button. You can then close the File Manager and move and resize your image on the web page.

• Check and publish: Your website can be instantly viewed online and is also available for anyone else to look at. Either click on the relevant button on screen, or use your web browser to visit your website address (the one ending ‘.moonfruit.com’). Your website can be further modified by logging into your account. Other features can be added including links to Facebook and Twitter.

Domain Names and Hosting

An easy-to-remember and relevant website address (domain name) is essential, but relatively easy to find and acquire. Domain name search sites including www.nameboy.com, www.123-reg.com, www.checkdomain.com and www.whois.net can check whether a domain name is already owned. If it isn’t, you can shop around for a deal to purchase the name along with any web hosting packages and online web design services (if required). 

All-in-one Offers

If you haven’t got a domain name and web space to host a website and are unfamiliar with HTML or web design software, it may be cost effective to opt for a package that includes all of these features with an annual or monthly payment. Web hosting services can provide all of this and there are plenty of them to be found through search engines such as Google and Yahoo! However, it’s worthwhile speaking with them and making sure you’re confident they are providing the correct advice and guidance. Look for web hosting services that are in your country and possibly local to you.

Home ISP Websites

Your internet service provider at home may provide some online space, which can be used to host a website.

Free Domain Names 

Many free website domain names are available, which include the provider’s business name in the address or feature advertising with your website. 

Adding Content 

There’s a vast assortment of content available that can be added to a website, some of which is free to use. The following section outlines what you need to consider in the way of content and where you can access free material that helps to make your website look professional. 

The Essentials

There are a number of categories of information that need to be included in your website to help avoid legal disputes and reassure customers you are genuine. These include the following: 

• About you: It always helps to include a short section outlining who you are and what you do. If possible, include a personal angle, such as a photograph of yourself.

• Legal paragraphs: Include any relevant information on copyright of your website’s content and legal disclaimers concerning the purchase of products and delivery. Look at other people’s websites to see what is required.

• Purchase protection: Display the methods of payment you accept and if there are any security measures, promote this to reassure customers the website is genuine (for example, SSL or Verified by Visa).

• Contact details: A website needs to offer some method of communication to help deal with enquiries, purchases and complaints. 

Avoiding Scams and Spam

One of the biggest threats for a commercial website is receiving an endless stream of spam emails and telephone calls from companies offering products and services you don’t want. Many websites try to avoid this using the following methods:

• Contact details: Don’t display your contact details as text because the information can be copied and used for sales calls. Instead, create an image for the contact details and add this to your website. 
• Online forms: If you have any online forms for customers to submit questions, include a validation field where the submitter has to type in some words that are displayed as an image. This is difficult for automated programs to read and helps to avoid scams.
• Register first: Restrict access to your website unless visitors register and log in. Whilst this may deter some customers, it helps provide a level of security, which may reassure customers who want to make online purchases. 

Keep It Clear 

Make sure your content is clear and easy to understand. Avoid over-filling pages to make them difficult to read. Many websites are cluttered with affiliate advertising, search boxes and additional images, leaving very little space for the main content.

Copyright-free Material

Illustrations, photographs, artwork, video and animation are some of the elements that help to bring a website to life, but where do you find such material and do you have to pay a fee? There are lots of ways to obtain free material, including the following:

• Free clipart on your computer: Programs such as Microsoft Office and dedicated drawing programs such as CorelDraw include free-to-use clipart, which can be included in a website.

• Free clipart and photos online: Search for ‘free clipart for websites’ using a search engine such as Google or Yahoo! and you’ll find an abundance of websites offering free images. 

• 
  Free animation: Animated images help to bring a website to life and can easily be incorporated without slowing down the rate at which the page loads. Animated GIFs and other types of files can be found at a wide range of free clipart websites (see above).

• Other free stuff: Banners, sidebars, lines and buttons can all be found on free clipart websites. 

• Online website builders: If you use an online service to construct your website, this will probably include images and other features that can be included in your website for free. 

Hot Tip: Don’t copy images from other people’s websites without their permission. It could result in a very expensive legal claim.

That's plenty to get you started with your own website. As you gain more experience, you may want to include some video on your site – a particularly effective element on a website. Or add a forum – useful for a wide range of purposes, form gathering opinions on your products to providing online help. Other useful features include guestbooks, news, polls, search facilities, calendars, social network links, live chat, and – a particularly effective internet marketing tool – a blog. 

Links

• Vist Tom Jones' straightforward guide to creating your own website.
• Upload videos easily using specialist services such as these.
• Set up a blog online with a free service such as this.

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, How to Make Money on the Internet by Rob Hawkins (ISBN: 9780857753908) – where you can find more on the above and further help on how to get the best out of your website.

Avoiding Fraud Made Easy: Making money and doing business over the internet have their fair share of problems. The following info introduces a wide range of risks, from email scams and hacking to credit card fraud and dishonest customers, which should help you take steps to be more secure online. 

Scams

The vast assortment of scams on the internet range from tax refunds to offers to make you rich overnight. As a general rule, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, so be cautious with such offers. However, many of these scams are often not so obvious to identify. If you are selling goods via the internet, you may receive emails from suppliers, payment services and financial institutions that deal with your transactions or banking. In amongst all the legitimate communication you receive, scams can be difficult to recognize.

Common Scams

It can often be very difficult to identify a fraudulent or false email from a genuine one, as they frequently change and new ones emerge every week. Here are some of the most popular ones:

• False links: Never sign in to a bank, PayPal or other account via a link within an email. This is a common type of scam and often leads to a fake website where your personal details are captured as you log in. Popular scams include security alerts, account suspended notifications and tax refunds.

• Payment made: Emails containing a receipt for goods purchased or a payment made, which you have not authorized are a common scam. Do not click on any links within the email, but check the account that has been supposedly debited.

• E-cards: Never download an e-card or click on a link to download a plug-in or other software to view a card. Even if the e-card is supposedly from someone you know, it may be a virus that has spread from their computer. As a general defence, invest in a reputable virus checker and firewall, and regularly run virus checks on your computer.

• Funds transfer: Another common scam are the emails from someone who claims to have a large sum of money to transfer out of a country in trouble (Nigeria and Iraq are popular) and is looking for a bank account to transfer the money to. You are offered a large fee, but if you respond, you are told you have to first pay the transfer fees. These fees continue and you never see any money.

• You won the lottery: Thousands of emails are produced claiming that you’ve won a lottery which you’ve never entered in a country you’ve never visited. In some cases, the prize money cannot be claimed until you’ve paid a fee, whereas in other cases, you have to submit personal details. In all cases, this is not a genuine lottery win.

• Work from home: Emails claiming you can easily earn hundreds of pounds or dollars a day from very little work are often too good to be true. The sales pitch never reveals what the work involves, because it is often non-existent or a type of pyramid selling (illegal in many countries).

• Data gathering: Some emails contain a program that can retrieve personal data from your computer. The program is often activated upon opening the email message. If an email looks at all suspicious (sent from a non-official email address, too-good-to-be-true promises in subject line, bad grammar etc.) you may be safer deleting it right away. Also a good idea is to always read your email via a web mail service, never via an email program that downloads messages to your computer.

• Pyramid sales: Just like chain letters, pyramid sales rely upon a person paying money, then emailing several friends to do the same. Eventually your name arrives at the top of the list and you will allegedly receive lots of cash! The scheme often fails and is illegal in some countries.

• Romance: When someone you have never met is in love with you via email, don’t believe a word of it.

Fraud on Fraud

The worst scams are those that prey on a person’s vulnerability concerning their identity, reputation or money. The following scams are common via email and over the telephone:

• ID theft prevention: So called ‘identity theft prevention services’ have been known to contact people claiming to offer such services and request a person’s personal details, which can then be used fraudulently.

• Credit rating: Companies claiming to improve a person’s credit rating or remove a black listing that should not exist.

• Computer virus: A popular money-making method is to telephone people and explain their computer has a virus, which can be removed if they pay a fee via a credit or debit card. This is usually a scam as the organization has no way of knowing whether a computer has a virus or not.

• Card fraud: A telephone call is received explaining your credit or debit card has been used fraudulently, but before anything can be done about it, you need to run through some security questions. Whilst this may be genuine, do not reveal any details, hang up the phone and call the financial institution for the credit or debit card in question.

Non-scams Become Scams

Sometimes, a genuine idea to make money becomes a scam. For instance, Google cash was initially a legitimate business idea to create Google Ads and make money. There was even an e-book written on the subject by someone who claims to have made a lot of money from it. Sadly, there are many scammers who have taken this method of earning money and made it into a scam. Consequently, it’s difficult to tell what is genuine and what is a waste of money. There are numerous training kits, books and videos promising to make you rich using Google Ads and other advertising techniques. Finding genuine material isn’t always so easy.

Selling Trouble

The commonest problems that can arise with buying and selling over the internet include the following:

• Overpayment: If a payment is received via a cheque through the post and the amount is greater than the purchase price, do not provide an immediate refund for the difference until the cheque has cleared. This type of scam usually results in the cheque not clearing.

• Goods not received: If you sell an item and deliver it, but the buyer claims it has not been received, you may have to provide a refund or send the same item again (if available). It often helps to use a traceable delivery service, even if the cost of delivery is more expensive.

• Used and returned: If a buyer returns a purchase, but when it comes back it has clearly been used, you may still have to offer a refund. This is a particular problem with goods that can be copied, such as an instruction booklet.

eBay, Amazon and other selling websites provide ratings for buyers and sellers, so always check them out if you are concerned about doing business with someone.

Business Scams

There is an ever-growing list of scams offering new business and investment opportunities and cheaper products that don’t exist. Here are some of the most popular ones to avoid:

• Timeshare and travel: This involves discounted property share deals, plane tickets and tickets for major events that don’t exist. If there is no means of getting a refund, don’t become involved.

• Government grants: If your business is eligible for a grant, find out about it from the government body that awards it, not a third party that promises to process your application.

• Fake suppliers: Buying items from an unknown supplier to sell on can be risky. Many businesses use reputable and reliable wholesalers, but it’s always tempting to use someone else, especially if they’re cheaper. If you decide to use an unknown supplier, use PayPal or a similar service to hold the funds until the goods have been delivered and checked.

• Ponzi and Madoff: Investment schemes that offer returns from other people’s money (also known as a pyramid scheme) are illegal in many countries. They use a chain letter method, but most people lose money. The scheme has been around since the nineteenth century. Well-known perpetrators include Charles Ponzi and Bernard Madoff.

• Re-shipping: Goods are ordered for an overseas delivery, but then the customer advises that the goods will be collected by an agent or freight representative. The customer orders an additional charge to be added to the total cost and for you to pay it to the person collecting the goods. You pay the collector, but never receive any payment.

Payment Fraud

Credit and debit card fraud is one of the biggest problems concerning trading on the internet. If you are receiving payments for goods via credit and debit cards, contact the organization managing these payments to find out what you need to do to avoid fraud. Also, find out whether there are any situations where you will lose money regardless of the precautions you take.

As you can see, it's not just the buyers who are at risk – it's the sellers and businesses too – so wise up!

Links

• Here is some official advice on avoiding fraud online.

• If you needed convincing of the importance of being vigilant, read about this victim's experience. 

• More tips on how to sell your stuff online safely. 

This post is based on an extract from our bestselling book, How to Make Money on the Internet by Rob Hawkins (ISBN: 9780857753908).